Slit Sleeve Shirt Sewing Tutorial

A V-Neck Shirt with Slit Sleeve Detail

Hello! Wow, has it been ages since I’ve been here. I hope that everyone has been faring well enough these past few years, pandemic and all. The kids are getting older, we’re sort of back to a new schedule, and life is seemingly in a new normal. So.. sewing anyone? Enjoy this tutorial!

Today we will be making a v-neck top featuring 3/4 long sleeves with a slit sleeve detail. We’re going to use a floral print fabric, to give an overall feel of lightness, breeziness, and femininity.

Here at Sewing Daydreams, I make patterns of everything. That way, I can help isolate features of a pattern that work well, and those parts that need some tweaking. For today’s shirt, I’m going to use a copy of the pattern I made for my Back Tie Maternity Tunic Tutorial. I like the length of the sleeves and the shape of the tunic so I’m going to make a copy of it and use that as my base.

Material:

• 1 yard of fabric
• matching thread
• pattern paper

The skinny:

This piece is meant to be able to transition from season to season. I plan on wearing it this fall and spring as a layering piece, then as a stand alone shirt come summer.

Step by Step:

1. Make a copy of your bodice pattern and make any edits you want. Again, I used my Back Tie Maternity Tunic pattern as a guide. For my edits, I made the bottom hem of the shirt 5″ shorter. I increased the width along the top of the shoulder 1″ towards the neck. I changed the neckline shape to a v-neck, and I shaped the mid-section of the bodice to accentuate some curves. Cut the pattern out. This is the front shirt bodice pattern.

2. Make a second copy of your new pattern, adjusting the back neckline. I’m going to give the back of my neck a scoop neckline.

3. Next, the sleeve pattern. I used the sleeve pattern from my Back Tie Maternity Tunic but you can use any basic sleeve pattern. Just keep in mind whether you want a more fitted sleeve or a more billowy sleeve. This time round I opted for a more fitted sleeve, but next time I will definitely try the billowy sleeve.

Take the sleeve pattern, fold it in half and make a copy of just the folded half of it. Add a seam allowance along the long part of the arm. Cut the pattern out. This is your quarter sleeve pattern, which allows for the opening in the sleeve.

4. Using your necklines as a guide, make a neckline lining pattern for the front and back neckline, keeping the original shape. Make the width 1½”.

Cut out your patterns on your fabric. Make sure you cut out four of the quarter sleeve patterns; two for either side.

The Sewing

5. Take your front and back shirt pieces. Right sides together, pin then sew across the top of each shoulder.  Trim off any excess fabric.

6. Now take your neckline linings. Right sides together, pin and sew across each end. This will make a circle of sorts. Trim off any excess fabric. This will help firm up your neckline.

Right sides together, pin the neckline lining to the shirt pieces. Try to make sure it is put on evenly. Sew this together. Sew as close to the edge as you can. Be sure to pivot the needle at the bottom of the v-neck on both sides.

I’m going to do a small zigzag stitch real quick around the inside hem of the neckline.

Tuck and fold the neckline lining into the shirt and sew around it using a wide straight stitch. Make sure to pivot at the bottom of the v in the v neckline.

7. Now the sleeves. Each sleeve will be made with two pieces of fabric that are joined at two points; one at the shoulder and one at the bottom of the sleeve.

The first step here is to hem the long straight edge on each sleeve piece. This is the opening of the slit detail on your sleeve. It’s easiest to finish that edge now.

Now, we are going to tack the tops of the sleeve pieces together. I sewed the two sleeves together at the top for a length of 1½”.

Now, right side to right side, pin and sew the sleeves to the shirt. Make sure to match the center of the sleeve to the center of the sleeve hole. Sew from armpit to armpit. Do this for each side.

8. Right sides together, sew the front and back pieces together from the bottom of the sleeve across the armpit, down the sides, to the bottom of the shirt. Do this for each side.

9. I’m going to first zigzag the edge of my sleeves, then do a rolled hem.

Next, tack the edges of the sleeve together at the hem. I used a zigzag stitch.

10. Finally, hem the bottom of the shirt. I’m going to do a blindhem stitch but you can do whatever you wish.

And that’s it! All done. Hope you enjoyed this and stay healthy!

My housekeeping notes:

Stretch Needle:  settings, top shoulders, sewing neckline lining together, 10, 3.5, 2.5
settings, sewing neckline lining to shirt, 00, 3.5, 2.5
settings, inside neckline lining, 03, 4.0, 2.5
settings, wide straight stitch around neckline, 00, 3.5, 4.0
settings, sides, 10, 3.5, 2.5
settings, rolled hem, 03, 2.5, 3.0
settings, tacking the sleeves, 03, 3.5, 3.0
settings, blind hem, 07, 2.5, 3.0

settings, 03, 4,5, 2.5 or 0.3, 4.5, 2.0 for a more wavy hem