It’s cold where I live, and I want to make something cozy that I can layer on to help keep the chill off. I also want it to be versatile enough where I can wear it out or wear it in while cuddling on the couch. So, today, we will be making a hooded wrap long sleeved shirt with a self-tie belt at the waist. Of course, there will be pockets, so no worries there. Here we go!
I was torn between making a traditional hoodie with a zipper and all, or a wrap, but decided on a hooded wrap since it could be more formal if I needed it to be. To make the shirt more roomy, I gave it drop sleeves. For the shape of the hood, I made it taller than I needed it to be so that it would settle nicely on my head when up
- pattern supplies (pattern paper, pencil, scissors, rulers)
- a long sleeved shirt/sweater and a hoodie that you can use as guides
- 2½ yards of knit fabric
- matching thread
- fusible knit interfacing (optional – for stabilizing the self-tie belt and pockets)
Hooded Wrap Tutorial
MAKING THE PATTERN
1. Fold your pattern paper in half. Take the sweater or shirt you’re using as a guide, fold it in half lengthwise, tuck the arms in, and place it on your pattern paper matching the folds up. Trace around your shirt onto the pattern paper adding your desired seam allowance. I’m adding a 2″ seam allowance at the bottom of the shirt and a ½” seam allowance everywhere else. Cut this out and unfold it. This the back of your hooded wrap.
2. Fold your pattern back in half and make a second copy of it onto the middle of a one-ply piece of pattern paper. This pattern is for the front of the shirt and since this shirt is open the pattern will only be a half shirt (we will cut out two of this pattern) and we just need to make two small adjustments. Slightly lower the neckline and add your desired seam allowance to part of the pattern that runs up the middle of the shirt. I’m going to actually add 2″ here. Cut this out. You now have the front of your hooded wrap.
3. Next we will make our sleeve pattern. Use your sweater as a guide, and onto pattern paper lay your sleeve onto the armhole of the pattern you just made. Trace around it. Add your desired seam allowance and cut it out. Place it onto another piece of pattern paper so that the outside edge lines up with a fold. Trace and cut it out. Your sleeve pattern should now look like this.
4. Now we will make the hoodie part of the hooded wrap. Using your hoodie as a guide, trace around your hood onto pattern paper. Make a straight line across the bottom from the front to the back of the hood. Add your desired seam allowance. Cut this out.
5. Next we will make the self-tie pattern belt piece. Remember when figuring out your width, that we will be adding interface to the fabric and folding it on itself, so you might need some extra width. I’m going to make mine 5″ x 61″, which includes seam allowances.
6. Finally, let’s make the patch pocket pattern. I’m going to make mine a little bit larger than my cellphone, 7″ x 8″ which includes seam allowances.
Okay! That is all the pattern pieces for the hooded wrap. Now, onto sewing!
MAKING THE HOODED WRAP
1. Pin/trace your pattern pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. Make sure to orient the grain of the fabric so the stretch goes from side to side for your shirt pieces and along the width of the sleeves. Cut these out.
2. Put your front and back shirt pieces right side together, pin, then sew across the top of each shoulder. Trim off any excess fabric.
3. Next we will attach the sleeves. Right sides together, match the middle of the shoulder on the sleeve pattern to the middle of the shoulder on the shirt pattern. Pin the sleeves in place, making your way from the middle down to the armpits. Sew this. Repeat with the other sleeve. Trim off any excess fabric.
4. Right sides together, starting with the end of your sleeves, pin and sew along the bottom of the sleeve, to the armpit, along the side of the shirt down to the bottom. Do this for the other side and cut off any excess fabric. You can now try you hooded wrap on to see how it fits and make any adjustments you need to.
5. Next, the hood. Right sides together, pin and sew your two hood pieces together. Now, right sides together, pin and sew your hood to the shirt. Match the seam on the hood up with the middle of the back neckline.
6. Hem the opening on the shirt, the hood, and around the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt.
7. Now we’re going to add the pockets. Cut out 4 pieces of interfacing the same size as your pockets. Adhere two of the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the pocket material using an iron. Fold in, pin, and sew the hem around the pockets.
Using an iron, adhere the other two interfacing pieces to the underside of the fabric of your shirt where you’re going to sew your pockets. This will strengthen up your pockets. Now, pin and sew your pockets to the right side of the shirt over the areas reinforced with interfacing.
10. Cut out interfacing the same size as your self-tie belt and adere the interfacing to the belt material using an iron. I had to do mine in several pieces. Then, pin and sew up the hemline along all raw edges. Fold it in half lengthwise and pin and sew it up.
And we are done. I was going to add little belt loops onto the shirt but didn’t want to for those days I don’t want to wear the belt. I hope you enjoyed my hooded wrap tutorial!